DEA, TEA: Used in products such as mascara, foundation and body wash as an emulsifier and/or foaming agent. Environmental Working Group (EWG) has found them to be a skin sensitizer and that they can form carcinogenic nitrosamine compounds in the skin or body after absorption if mixed with nitrosating agents. Scorecard.org has classified them as a respiratory toxin, neurotoxicity hazard and immunotoxicity hazard. Listed on labels as: DEA, Diethanolamine, TEA, Triethanolamine.
Dibutyl Phthalate: Most often used in nail polish or treatment. Has been deemed a possible reproductive or developmental toxin, potential endocrine disruptor, skin sensitizer, immune system toxin, gastrointestinal or liver toxicant, kidney toxicant, and neurotoxin by EWG. The European Union has found it to be dangerous for the environment, very toxic to aquatic organisms and has banned it from use in cosmetics. The EPA Water Quality Standards Database states it is a priority water pollutant under the Clean Water Act and a hazardous air pollutant under the Clean Air Act. Listed on labels as: Dibutyl Phthalate, DBP.
Formaldehyde: Used in nail treatment, EWG lists it as a known human carcinogen, skin and lung sensitizer, gastrointestinal or liver toxicant and neurotoxin. Listed on labels as: Formaldehyde, Formalin, Urea.
Parabens: Widely used as a preservative to inhibit microbial growth in many products ranging from hand soap to toothpaste and also many foods. Has been assessed as hormonally active by the Cosmetics Ingredient Review. Appears to mimic estrogen in our bodies and has been found in breast tissue. EWG found parabens to be a possible endocrine disruptor, which could lead to impaired fertility or fetal development. Also found to be a skin sensitizer and skin or sense organ toxicant. Listed on labels as: alkyl parahydroxybenzoate, butylparaben, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparabens.
Petrolatum: Otherwise known as petroleum jelly, it is a mineral oil derivative used as an emollient or lubricant in products such as lip balm and eye makeup. EWG found it to be potentially contaminated with impurities linked to cancer or other significant health problems. The European Union has banned petrolatum from use in cosmetics. Listed on labels as: Petrolatum, petroleum jelly.
Propylene Glycol: Used as humectants (to retain moisture) in products ranging from moisturizers and shampoos to baby powder and contact lens cleaner. Found by EWG to be a penetration enhancer, which alters skin structure, allowing other chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin, increasing the amounts of other chemicals that reach the bloodstream. Found to be a skin sensitizer by National Library of Medicine Haz-Map. Scorecard.org deemed it a suspected respiratory toxin, immunotoxicity and neurotoxicity hazard. Listed on labels as: Propylene Glycol, Proptylene Glycol, 1,2-Propanediol. Related synthetics: PEG (polyethylene glycol) and PPG (polypropylene glycol).
Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate: Used as a surfactant (makes it foamy) in various products, such as shampoos, bubble bath and toothpaste. Has been deemed by EWG as a penetration enhancer, which alters skin structure, allowing other chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin, increasing the amount of other chemicals that reach the bloodstream. Listed on labels as: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Anhydrous Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Irium.
Talc: Used in products such as body powder, eye shadow and diaper cream, EWG found it to be potentially contaminated with harmful impurities linked to cancer or other significant health problems and a respiratory toxicant. Listed on labels as: Talc, Talcum.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Avoid these ingredients like the you know what...
Ok, so I actually came across this list on another beauty blog (http://www.organicbeautysource.com/), but I felt it was really important to add this to my own list of thing to share with the public too. As I have mentioned in the past, ingredients are of the utmost importance when choosing a cosmetic item. There are so many wonderful products available these days that make it easier to care for your body, skin, and planet. So be a responsible consumer, and check out this information!
Monday, August 17, 2009
Cleansers I have known and loved.
When I was in beauty school, (Miss Marty's School of Beauty in downtown San Francisco... thank you very much) I can still recall when my instructor "Miss Maria" said to us, "Whatever you think you know about skin care, please disregard that information." At the time, I thought to myself, "Well, I have been taking care of my skin my whole life, so this will not be anything new to me", and I was so wrong. Just short of applying nail polish remover to my face, (and I am pretty sure that I came very close to doing that in times of desperation), I had been abusing my poor face since early teen hood. The next thing that she emphatically expressed was "Absolutely no self-surgery". This meant that under no circumstance should you try and pop your own blemishes. I was an offender. So where would she start this re-eduction of Miss Erin? I had to unlearn all that I had learned. She started with cleansers.
Rule #1. All cleansers are not created equal, under God, indivisible.
In this case, it is all about your chemistry folks. Understanding what your ingredients are telling you is the name of the game. That being said, if the list of ingredients contains more terms that are unrecognizable than actual familiar terms, this is a sign that you might want to switch cleansers. (Note to self: include a glossary of terms later on in this blog.)
Rule #2. Do not be afraid of oil.
This is imperative. So many people think, "If there is oil in my cleanser, then it will just make my face dirty, or break out". This is a lie, and does not make any sort of scientific sense. The goal of washing your face is to break down surface particulates, and remove dead skin and dirt and or debris. You do this so that your skin has a chance to repair itself, rather than constantly having to fight off bacteria. The idea that you have to use a harsh cleanser to remove dirt is a myth. I am not telling you that you can just dump any old oil on your face in order to clean it either, but I am telling you that it does a fine job of breaking down waxy make-up and also of removing surface dirt. How does it do this? Science! Oil dissolves oil. What does this mean? Oil is a good solvent for non polar molecules. This means that it will dissolve many organic compounds because they are non-polar. It will not dissolve ionic compounds, like water.
You cannot rely on just any oil to clean your face. Refined, natural oils are better suited for the job. "Baby Oil" is actually made from mineral oil ( petroleum), and will do nothing for your face but sit on your skin and clog your pores. Vaseline, same thing. These are petro-chemicals and should be kept far away from your body in general, especially your face. Give your body, and the environment a break, and do not use these products, or any products containing them. They are ineffective and can cause long term negative reactions to your skin.
Refined body oils work well in skin care products because they are composed of molecules that are small enough to penetrate into areas of your skin where dirt can be hiding. If you use a regular olive oil and compare it to a refined jojoba oil, you will find the olive oil to be much thicker than the jojoba. Similar to the way that acids and enzymes help you to digest food, the acids on the surface of your skin metabolize (break down) things that lay on the surface. If you are using products that have molecules that are too large to break down, you will end up with a large amount of unabsorbed product that just sort of sits on your skin, attracting bacteria and clogging pores. This also disrupts the pH of your skin too, and could lead to future break outs. An example of a refined oil that would be good to use is Jojoba. The pH of jojoba extract is similar to that of the of of your skin, and if used correctly, would not disrupt the natural pH balance of your skin. Refined forms of sunflower seed oil, apricot seed oil and avocado seed oil are all very mild and effective oils that contain a large amount of vitamin e, and are easily absorbed by your skin. Look for cleansers that include these products.
Rule #3. It is really important to wash your face before you go to bed.
I can't stress this enough. I cannot believe it when people tell me that they never wash their face, and then complain that they have acne. While dirt and make-up alone don't always cause break-outs, the bacteria that you spread all over your face from touching it, eating, and wiping your nose is enough to cause other problems. The surface of your face is home to three very important parts of your body that serve many functions. All the air you breath goes in and out of your nose and mouth, all the food you eat goes in your mouth, all of the smells you encounter go through your nose, and your vision is reliant upon your eyes. Why wouldn't you want to keep this area clean? Your face is constantly having to produce oil as a protective measure to carry away toxins and bacteria from these extremely important areas. Your body repairs itself on it's own every day, but the time that it can do this is at night, when your other functions are not taking up all of your energy, so do your face a favor and wash it at night so that it can properly repair itself!
Rule #4. Make your routine enjoyable!
Taking care of your face is such an important job, but before you scrub away all of those oils and pollutants, you should understand how delicate the skin on your face is. The top layer of the face's skin, has fewer cell layers than any other part of the body except the genitalia. This thinner layer makes the skin more easily irritated. Also, because the face moves so much and has so many nerve endings, it's easier to notice tightness there. This combination means the skin has the potential to get irritated. Your routine care should be gentle, and above all else, enjoyable. Choose a light and creamy or non-foaming gel cleanser that is made from quality ingredients, and as few chemicals and preservatives as possible. Be sure that if there is an aroma, that is is pleasant to you. If you wear a lot of make-up, and you use a gentle cream cleanser, you will not need to use an additional eye make-up remover. Always splash your face with warm water and pat it dry. Your face should always feel comfortable and fresh after washing, with no signs of tightness or itching. It is important to use water to rinse away any left over residue.
My top ten favorite facial cleansers:
I am basing this list not only cleansers that I have used and love, but also have used in treatments for clients over the years. I am an Aveda trained esthetician. Now that I have admitted that, you will see that this blog will be peppered with Aveda products from time to time. I have also been trained to use Dermalogica, and Pevonia, so you will find nods to these lines as well. I am against using petroleum products (mineral oil) and parabens, so all of these products should be free of them (unless formulations have changed... always check your ingredient list!)
#1.) Suki "Moisture Rich Cleansing Lotion"
I am currently using this product, and have used it off and on for about five years. It has a pleasant aroma, is light and creamy, and really does a great job of gently removing make-up and whatever else that needs to be rinsed away. This line of product is amazing, and I wold love to open up a "suki spa" someday. (Suki, if you ever read this... look me up, I will develop a spa line with you!) I give this cleanser 5 stars, and would recommend it to just about anyone with any skin type. It is gentle, moisturizing, and effective. For people who find this cleanser too moisture rich, I would simply tell them to skip using a moisturizer. Folks with oily skin love this because usually they have been using harsh products that strip their poor little faces of oil. This cleanser has an amazing ability to restore ones natural moisture balance. It is a miracle in a glass jar. Love it!
#2) Aveda "All-Sensitive Cleanser"
This is a fragrance free cream cleanser that is perfect for all skin types. I look at it as a blank canvas for whatever type of skin you have. You can add your own botanics to it, you can use it to soothe irritated skin, you can use it on a baby. It is a work horse of a cleanser. The only thing that could make this product any better for me would be that it was packaged on a glass container, rather than a plastic one, but even that is made form recycled milk cartons, so you have to give it to Aveda for really taking a moment to think about their products, and the environment.
#3.) Aveda "Botanical Kinetics Purifying Creme Cleanser"
Ok, so I am rating another Aveda cleanser. Aveda makes several cleansers, and these are my two faves. This luxurious creme cleanser had an amazing aroma, is light, very moisturizing, and even comes in a glass jar. It is easily one of my personal favorites for the past 15 years. The only draw back it that it is heavy on the moisturizing part, and I often feel that I can only use this in the winter time. For folks with year round oil problems, I would only use this when you skin is on the dryer side. It is best for mature, dry and normal skin.
#4.) Dermalogica "Special Cleansing Gel"
Some people just cant get past the desire to have a soapy foam on their face when they wash it. They say, "It just doesn't feel clean unless I get all soapy". Well, for those of you who feel this way, I urge you to use this cleanser. It has artificial aroma, it is a light gel, and it lathers up! It also does this without stripping your face of essential oils, and leaves you feeling clean and smooth, without the tightness of most gel cleansers. While I prefer a creamier cleanser personally, I had many happy clients using this for years. It too has the flexibility of being a blank canvas, so that you can tailor it to your skin care needs by adding more soothing botanics, or moisturizing oils. It is a unique gel cleanser that is suitable for all skin types.
#5.) Caudalie "Instant Foaming Cleanser"
While I am not a huge fan of the gel cleanser, I have found that there are a number of foam cleansers out there that are gentle enough for everyday use. On a trip Paris, I found myself running into this product often enough in skin care stores that I decided to give it a try. It had a wonderful plant aroma and velvety foam. Light, easy to rinse off, and leaving a hint of moisture, I was amazed at the ease and effectiveness of this product. If you are a person with less than 30 seconds to wash your face, this is the product for you. One pump of the foam and a quick swipe over your face, and you are ready to rinse. After I ran out of this cleanser, I was resigned to return to Paris just get more, but alas, they sell it at Sephora! While I always need an excuse to return to Paris, my trip to Sephora was much cheaper. This product it gentle enough for all skin types, but if you are on the itchy and dry side, or dislike aromas, then this is not the product for you.
more reviews coming soon.
Rule #1. All cleansers are not created equal, under God, indivisible.
In this case, it is all about your chemistry folks. Understanding what your ingredients are telling you is the name of the game. That being said, if the list of ingredients contains more terms that are unrecognizable than actual familiar terms, this is a sign that you might want to switch cleansers. (Note to self: include a glossary of terms later on in this blog.)
Rule #2. Do not be afraid of oil.
This is imperative. So many people think, "If there is oil in my cleanser, then it will just make my face dirty, or break out". This is a lie, and does not make any sort of scientific sense. The goal of washing your face is to break down surface particulates, and remove dead skin and dirt and or debris. You do this so that your skin has a chance to repair itself, rather than constantly having to fight off bacteria. The idea that you have to use a harsh cleanser to remove dirt is a myth. I am not telling you that you can just dump any old oil on your face in order to clean it either, but I am telling you that it does a fine job of breaking down waxy make-up and also of removing surface dirt. How does it do this? Science! Oil dissolves oil. What does this mean? Oil is a good solvent for non polar molecules. This means that it will dissolve many organic compounds because they are non-polar. It will not dissolve ionic compounds, like water.
You cannot rely on just any oil to clean your face. Refined, natural oils are better suited for the job. "Baby Oil" is actually made from mineral oil ( petroleum), and will do nothing for your face but sit on your skin and clog your pores. Vaseline, same thing. These are petro-chemicals and should be kept far away from your body in general, especially your face. Give your body, and the environment a break, and do not use these products, or any products containing them. They are ineffective and can cause long term negative reactions to your skin.
Refined body oils work well in skin care products because they are composed of molecules that are small enough to penetrate into areas of your skin where dirt can be hiding. If you use a regular olive oil and compare it to a refined jojoba oil, you will find the olive oil to be much thicker than the jojoba. Similar to the way that acids and enzymes help you to digest food, the acids on the surface of your skin metabolize (break down) things that lay on the surface. If you are using products that have molecules that are too large to break down, you will end up with a large amount of unabsorbed product that just sort of sits on your skin, attracting bacteria and clogging pores. This also disrupts the pH of your skin too, and could lead to future break outs. An example of a refined oil that would be good to use is Jojoba. The pH of jojoba extract is similar to that of the of of your skin, and if used correctly, would not disrupt the natural pH balance of your skin. Refined forms of sunflower seed oil, apricot seed oil and avocado seed oil are all very mild and effective oils that contain a large amount of vitamin e, and are easily absorbed by your skin. Look for cleansers that include these products.
Rule #3. It is really important to wash your face before you go to bed.
I can't stress this enough. I cannot believe it when people tell me that they never wash their face, and then complain that they have acne. While dirt and make-up alone don't always cause break-outs, the bacteria that you spread all over your face from touching it, eating, and wiping your nose is enough to cause other problems. The surface of your face is home to three very important parts of your body that serve many functions. All the air you breath goes in and out of your nose and mouth, all the food you eat goes in your mouth, all of the smells you encounter go through your nose, and your vision is reliant upon your eyes. Why wouldn't you want to keep this area clean? Your face is constantly having to produce oil as a protective measure to carry away toxins and bacteria from these extremely important areas. Your body repairs itself on it's own every day, but the time that it can do this is at night, when your other functions are not taking up all of your energy, so do your face a favor and wash it at night so that it can properly repair itself!
Rule #4. Make your routine enjoyable!
Taking care of your face is such an important job, but before you scrub away all of those oils and pollutants, you should understand how delicate the skin on your face is. The top layer of the face's skin, has fewer cell layers than any other part of the body except the genitalia. This thinner layer makes the skin more easily irritated. Also, because the face moves so much and has so many nerve endings, it's easier to notice tightness there. This combination means the skin has the potential to get irritated. Your routine care should be gentle, and above all else, enjoyable. Choose a light and creamy or non-foaming gel cleanser that is made from quality ingredients, and as few chemicals and preservatives as possible. Be sure that if there is an aroma, that is is pleasant to you. If you wear a lot of make-up, and you use a gentle cream cleanser, you will not need to use an additional eye make-up remover. Always splash your face with warm water and pat it dry. Your face should always feel comfortable and fresh after washing, with no signs of tightness or itching. It is important to use water to rinse away any left over residue.
My top ten favorite facial cleansers:
I am basing this list not only cleansers that I have used and love, but also have used in treatments for clients over the years. I am an Aveda trained esthetician. Now that I have admitted that, you will see that this blog will be peppered with Aveda products from time to time. I have also been trained to use Dermalogica, and Pevonia, so you will find nods to these lines as well. I am against using petroleum products (mineral oil) and parabens, so all of these products should be free of them (unless formulations have changed... always check your ingredient list!)
#1.) Suki "Moisture Rich Cleansing Lotion"
I am currently using this product, and have used it off and on for about five years. It has a pleasant aroma, is light and creamy, and really does a great job of gently removing make-up and whatever else that needs to be rinsed away. This line of product is amazing, and I wold love to open up a "suki spa" someday. (Suki, if you ever read this... look me up, I will develop a spa line with you!) I give this cleanser 5 stars, and would recommend it to just about anyone with any skin type. It is gentle, moisturizing, and effective. For people who find this cleanser too moisture rich, I would simply tell them to skip using a moisturizer. Folks with oily skin love this because usually they have been using harsh products that strip their poor little faces of oil. This cleanser has an amazing ability to restore ones natural moisture balance. It is a miracle in a glass jar. Love it!
#2) Aveda "All-Sensitive Cleanser"
This is a fragrance free cream cleanser that is perfect for all skin types. I look at it as a blank canvas for whatever type of skin you have. You can add your own botanics to it, you can use it to soothe irritated skin, you can use it on a baby. It is a work horse of a cleanser. The only thing that could make this product any better for me would be that it was packaged on a glass container, rather than a plastic one, but even that is made form recycled milk cartons, so you have to give it to Aveda for really taking a moment to think about their products, and the environment.
#3.) Aveda "Botanical Kinetics Purifying Creme Cleanser"
Ok, so I am rating another Aveda cleanser. Aveda makes several cleansers, and these are my two faves. This luxurious creme cleanser had an amazing aroma, is light, very moisturizing, and even comes in a glass jar. It is easily one of my personal favorites for the past 15 years. The only draw back it that it is heavy on the moisturizing part, and I often feel that I can only use this in the winter time. For folks with year round oil problems, I would only use this when you skin is on the dryer side. It is best for mature, dry and normal skin.
#4.) Dermalogica "Special Cleansing Gel"
Some people just cant get past the desire to have a soapy foam on their face when they wash it. They say, "It just doesn't feel clean unless I get all soapy". Well, for those of you who feel this way, I urge you to use this cleanser. It has artificial aroma, it is a light gel, and it lathers up! It also does this without stripping your face of essential oils, and leaves you feeling clean and smooth, without the tightness of most gel cleansers. While I prefer a creamier cleanser personally, I had many happy clients using this for years. It too has the flexibility of being a blank canvas, so that you can tailor it to your skin care needs by adding more soothing botanics, or moisturizing oils. It is a unique gel cleanser that is suitable for all skin types.
#5.) Caudalie "Instant Foaming Cleanser"
While I am not a huge fan of the gel cleanser, I have found that there are a number of foam cleansers out there that are gentle enough for everyday use. On a trip Paris, I found myself running into this product often enough in skin care stores that I decided to give it a try. It had a wonderful plant aroma and velvety foam. Light, easy to rinse off, and leaving a hint of moisture, I was amazed at the ease and effectiveness of this product. If you are a person with less than 30 seconds to wash your face, this is the product for you. One pump of the foam and a quick swipe over your face, and you are ready to rinse. After I ran out of this cleanser, I was resigned to return to Paris just get more, but alas, they sell it at Sephora! While I always need an excuse to return to Paris, my trip to Sephora was much cheaper. This product it gentle enough for all skin types, but if you are on the itchy and dry side, or dislike aromas, then this is not the product for you.
more reviews coming soon.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Exfoliation and beyond.
The term "exfoliation" literally means "to cast off in scales". While our clothes, towels, washcloths, and bed sheets usually do a great job of rubbing off excess dead skin from our bodies, our faces require a different amount of care. If we want the fine and even delicate skin on our faces to remain baby soft and supple, then we need to treat it with the same care as we would a baby. This means no harsh scrubbing, strong cleansing agents or hot temperatures. Would you scrub your baby with a hot washcloth? Would you hold your baby under a scalding hot shower?. Would you use a strong, fragrant soap to wash your baby? No, no, no!! You would use a gentle and fragrance free soap and a soft cloth. Then, you would gently rinse your baby with warm water.
All of these same rules apply to your face.
1.) Do not let the hot water from the shower hit you directly on the face. This is too stimulating, and will exacerbate acne or dry skin, making it red and irritable, and also disrupting the natural balance of oils.
2.) Do not use harsh cleansers. I cannot stress this enough. Your cleanser should be doing one thing, and that is removing dirt or make-up from your face. it should leave your face feeling comfortable and soft, never dry, tight, or itchy.
3.) Washcloths and water are not the same as using a cleanser. While water is a natural solvent, it does not always breakdown waxy make-up residue, or some of the things that can clog your pores and cause blemishes. Scrubbing with a washcloth is also too stimulating for most faces, and unless your face is extremely dirty, then I would just avoid using a washcloth on your face. Soaping up and then splashing your face with warm water should be all you need to do to remove a gentle cleanser.
Washing your face, as I have said before, should be the corner stone of your beauty routine. Once you have found a gentle and effective product for cleansing you should also think about finding an exfoliation product to compliment your routine. While scrubs are great for the heels of your feet, or rough elbows, please keep them away from your face! Again, would you use a scrub on your baby?
Choosing an exfoliant: There are so many schools of thought about this. For those people who feel the need to sub categorize skin types, this is a difficult decision. After years of evaluating skin, I would separate skin types into the following categories.
1.) Sensitive: This is for anyone that experiences regular breakouts, redness, dryness, oil, and sensitivity to the sun. You can be any age, and have sensitive skin. Whether or not you have really dry skin, really oily skin, or a combination, you need to treat your face with products for sensitive skin. When using an exfoliant, consider only using a liquid exfoliant containing Beta Hydoxy acids (salicylic acid) or using a gentle aloe based mask to remove impurities. Avoid: Scrubs, glycolic acid, or fruit enzyme peels. While they may claim to be gentle enough for sensitive skin, they are too stimulating, and could cause more redness to occur. A mild, salicylic based liquid that you apply with a cotton ball is ideal, and can be used daily if needed. Be sure to wear sunscreen if this is the case, as salicylic acid (willow bark extract) will make you photo sensitive.
2.) Normal: Normal skin tends to not experience break-outs very often, is not overly oily or dry (except maybe during certain seasons) and is generally less demanding in terms of exfoliation. People who have normal skin may experience different types of sensitivity throughout their lives, but generally maintain this type of skin until they hit their 50's. I would say that using a mild exfoliant once a week is appropriate. Try finding an enzymatic fruit mask to apply once a week to remove surface impurities, and brighten your complexion. An alpha-hydroxy (or fruit acid) can also be used, but in a mild formula.
3.) Mature: Mature skin can be normal or sensitive, but also have additional needs. The desire to maintain a youthful appearance, and to diminish surface lines and wrinkles usually occurs after a certain age. A regular exfoliation and mask regimen can greatly aid in the elimination of dead skin on the surface of your face. Using a chemical exfoliant once or twice a week to remove the surface layer of skin to promote the regeneration of smoother, younger looking skin is ideal. Make sure that any home chemical peels or chemical exfoliants, contain one or more acids, such as AHA (alpha hydroxy) or BHA (beta hydroxy, or salicylic). Remember that regular use of products containing these acids will make you photosensitive, so always use sunscreen!
Using a gentle clay mask once a week is ideal as well, and the minerals will soften dead skin, clean pores, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and tighten pores.
Despite beauty industry claims to the contrary, no amount of products can reverse time. Genetics and lifestyle will dictate how your appear to age. That being said, it is never too late to change your lifestyle. Regular exercise, a nutrient rich diet, and plenty of rest will do amazing things for your skin. Protection from the sun not only reduces the amount of surface lines and pigmentation, but also decreases the chance of skin cancer for obvious reasons. Your skin is an organ, and should be treated with much care. As we age, the amount of new skin that we create slows down, and so we shed less dead skin as a result. This means that mature skin may require more stimulation and exfoliation in order to maintain a youthful appearance. Your body creates collagen and elastin on it's own, but as we age, this also slows down. Some people have collagen injected into areas of the face to smooth over areas that have begun to sag or wrinkle. Eventually, the collagen breaks down, and the skin will return to it's original state, but sometimes it will have scar tissue as a result of multiple injections over an area. Cosmetic surgery is also a popular but costly option to remove unwanted sagging skin or re-sculpt portions of the face.
If you desire to try more natural methods for the battle against time, the contours of your face are actually shaped by the muscles and adipose tissue underneath your skin. Regular massage of these muscles not only encourages more blood flow to this tissue, encouraging it to be more nourished, but also stimulates blood flow to the skin itself. The benefits of regular massage to the face are a huge factor in maintaining a youthful glow throughout your whole life, and it is something you can do to yourself for free! Most of us only really massage our faces when we are washing them, and this is for about 30 seconds total a day! Try to spend a few minutes when you wake up in the morning gently massaging your whole face. Notice how different your skin looks instantly! Regular facials are not only a relaxing treat, but also a wonderful way for you to get a deep exfoliation, and massage together. Investing in a monthly treatment would also be a nice way to compliment your routine.
Some favorite products of mine are:
Aveda's Botanical Kinetics : "Exfoliant"
$19.00 for 5oz.
(contains salicylic acid/everyday use is good for sensitive/normal skin)
http://www.aveda.com/templates/products2/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CATEGORY10610&PRODUCT_ID=PROD6142
Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant.
Prices vary-2.5 oz.
(contains AHAS/ good for normal/mature skin)
http://www.dermalogica.com/us/products.html#/products/gentle-cream-exfoliant
Pevonia Enzymo-Sphérides® Peeling Cream
$40.00 for 1.7 oz
(contains strong AHA"s and is good for light use with normal/ frequent use mature skin)
http://www.pevonia.com/product.aspx?pid=380
All of these same rules apply to your face.
1.) Do not let the hot water from the shower hit you directly on the face. This is too stimulating, and will exacerbate acne or dry skin, making it red and irritable, and also disrupting the natural balance of oils.
2.) Do not use harsh cleansers. I cannot stress this enough. Your cleanser should be doing one thing, and that is removing dirt or make-up from your face. it should leave your face feeling comfortable and soft, never dry, tight, or itchy.
3.) Washcloths and water are not the same as using a cleanser. While water is a natural solvent, it does not always breakdown waxy make-up residue, or some of the things that can clog your pores and cause blemishes. Scrubbing with a washcloth is also too stimulating for most faces, and unless your face is extremely dirty, then I would just avoid using a washcloth on your face. Soaping up and then splashing your face with warm water should be all you need to do to remove a gentle cleanser.
Washing your face, as I have said before, should be the corner stone of your beauty routine. Once you have found a gentle and effective product for cleansing you should also think about finding an exfoliation product to compliment your routine. While scrubs are great for the heels of your feet, or rough elbows, please keep them away from your face! Again, would you use a scrub on your baby?
Choosing an exfoliant: There are so many schools of thought about this. For those people who feel the need to sub categorize skin types, this is a difficult decision. After years of evaluating skin, I would separate skin types into the following categories.
1.) Sensitive: This is for anyone that experiences regular breakouts, redness, dryness, oil, and sensitivity to the sun. You can be any age, and have sensitive skin. Whether or not you have really dry skin, really oily skin, or a combination, you need to treat your face with products for sensitive skin. When using an exfoliant, consider only using a liquid exfoliant containing Beta Hydoxy acids (salicylic acid) or using a gentle aloe based mask to remove impurities. Avoid: Scrubs, glycolic acid, or fruit enzyme peels. While they may claim to be gentle enough for sensitive skin, they are too stimulating, and could cause more redness to occur. A mild, salicylic based liquid that you apply with a cotton ball is ideal, and can be used daily if needed. Be sure to wear sunscreen if this is the case, as salicylic acid (willow bark extract) will make you photo sensitive.
2.) Normal: Normal skin tends to not experience break-outs very often, is not overly oily or dry (except maybe during certain seasons) and is generally less demanding in terms of exfoliation. People who have normal skin may experience different types of sensitivity throughout their lives, but generally maintain this type of skin until they hit their 50's. I would say that using a mild exfoliant once a week is appropriate. Try finding an enzymatic fruit mask to apply once a week to remove surface impurities, and brighten your complexion. An alpha-hydroxy (or fruit acid) can also be used, but in a mild formula.
3.) Mature: Mature skin can be normal or sensitive, but also have additional needs. The desire to maintain a youthful appearance, and to diminish surface lines and wrinkles usually occurs after a certain age. A regular exfoliation and mask regimen can greatly aid in the elimination of dead skin on the surface of your face. Using a chemical exfoliant once or twice a week to remove the surface layer of skin to promote the regeneration of smoother, younger looking skin is ideal. Make sure that any home chemical peels or chemical exfoliants, contain one or more acids, such as AHA (alpha hydroxy) or BHA (beta hydroxy, or salicylic). Remember that regular use of products containing these acids will make you photosensitive, so always use sunscreen!
Using a gentle clay mask once a week is ideal as well, and the minerals will soften dead skin, clean pores, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and tighten pores.
Despite beauty industry claims to the contrary, no amount of products can reverse time. Genetics and lifestyle will dictate how your appear to age. That being said, it is never too late to change your lifestyle. Regular exercise, a nutrient rich diet, and plenty of rest will do amazing things for your skin. Protection from the sun not only reduces the amount of surface lines and pigmentation, but also decreases the chance of skin cancer for obvious reasons. Your skin is an organ, and should be treated with much care. As we age, the amount of new skin that we create slows down, and so we shed less dead skin as a result. This means that mature skin may require more stimulation and exfoliation in order to maintain a youthful appearance. Your body creates collagen and elastin on it's own, but as we age, this also slows down. Some people have collagen injected into areas of the face to smooth over areas that have begun to sag or wrinkle. Eventually, the collagen breaks down, and the skin will return to it's original state, but sometimes it will have scar tissue as a result of multiple injections over an area. Cosmetic surgery is also a popular but costly option to remove unwanted sagging skin or re-sculpt portions of the face.
If you desire to try more natural methods for the battle against time, the contours of your face are actually shaped by the muscles and adipose tissue underneath your skin. Regular massage of these muscles not only encourages more blood flow to this tissue, encouraging it to be more nourished, but also stimulates blood flow to the skin itself. The benefits of regular massage to the face are a huge factor in maintaining a youthful glow throughout your whole life, and it is something you can do to yourself for free! Most of us only really massage our faces when we are washing them, and this is for about 30 seconds total a day! Try to spend a few minutes when you wake up in the morning gently massaging your whole face. Notice how different your skin looks instantly! Regular facials are not only a relaxing treat, but also a wonderful way for you to get a deep exfoliation, and massage together. Investing in a monthly treatment would also be a nice way to compliment your routine.
Some favorite products of mine are:
Aveda's Botanical Kinetics : "Exfoliant"
$19.00 for 5oz.
(contains salicylic acid/everyday use is good for sensitive/normal skin)
http://www.aveda.com/templates/products2/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CATEGORY10610&PRODUCT_ID=PROD6142
Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant.
Prices vary-2.5 oz.
(contains AHAS/ good for normal/mature skin)
http://www.dermalogica.com/us/products.html#/products/gentle-cream-exfoliant
Pevonia Enzymo-Sphérides® Peeling Cream
$40.00 for 1.7 oz
(contains strong AHA"s and is good for light use with normal/ frequent use mature skin)
http://www.pevonia.com/product.aspx?pid=380
Monday, August 10, 2009
Real Beauty Advice: Reviews For The Confused Consumer.
Last Saturday, I was in a "Wholefoods Market" in Berkeley CA where I live, browsing in the "Whole Body" section where I was in search of a new sunblock. I must have some mystical aura around me that says "I used to work with beauty products", because I am not joking when I tell you that almost every time I am near any kind of cosmetic, someone will ask me for advice, or think that I work at the place that I am shopping. It never ceases to amaze me. It's as if I have some cosmic branding if you will. Invariably, I will engage this uneducated individual out of sympathy, and send them home with the products they need. Do I make a commission? No, but I should considering there is almost never a sales person around to help these poor lost lambs when they need it, and if there is... said sales person does not know anything about the products they are selling. I am sorry folks, but unless they have a license in Esthetics, they are just sales people being helpful.
This is when I had an epiphany... of sorts.
If I can create a blog that answers real questions about beauty products based on my experience with them, and can show people that understanding skin/body/make-up is not rocket science (most of the time), then they can feel empowered to shop with confidence.
To explain a little about me:
I am a retired Esthetician, turned accountant, who after about 8 years in the beauty/massage/spa world opted for a job with health care and dental plan. Sell out? Maybe, I do miss that world, but I also still keep my license valid, so that I can always go back to it when I am ready. I have been/will be a devoted user of cosmetic products, for hair, skin, nails, and beyond (more on that later). Since the first time that I carefully wound my grandmothers hair around an impossibly tiny perm rod, (I was about 8) to the last time I waxed a pals eyebrows before her job interview, I am a dedicated follower and user of beauty knowledge. I have read books, gone to institutes, attended seminars, been told the truth, and been lied to. But that is in the past. I no longer desire to have a 15 year old girl with $50 eye cream come up to me and ask if she thought that it would be strong enough for her. I no longer want a grown woman to ask me if they thought it was ok to use "Clean and Clear" toner. I feel that the beauty industry is much like the diet industry in the way that it bombards us with advertisement and confuses us with misinformation. My aim is to debunk the myths, and to deliver some sound advice about basic skin care for all ages, and skin "types". Who knows, perhaps I will write a book about all of this when I am done, but I had to start somewhere.
I suppose I should start by posting my first review. Here goes!
Suki Moisture Rich Cleansing Lotion
This is a light and creamy gentle cleanser for everyday use. It is for" normal", combination, dry and mature skin types. It features botanical ingredients such as organic lemon, organic sage and organic lavender. It boasts that it is good for solving"signs of aging, dryness and environmental oxidation"
What it is actually good for: Removing dirt, leaving your skin feeling moisturized, smelling amazing.
average price:$26.95 for 4.0 fl. ounces
I reviewed this product for many reasons.
1.) I have used it.
2.) I think investing in a decent cleanser is one of the most important things you can do for your face. (besides protecting it form the sun)
3.) It smells lovely, and this will make you look forward to washing your face everyday.
4.) it removes make-up really well without leaving you feeling stripped of all precious moisture, but also does not leave you greasy.
5.) Unless you have visibly flaky skin, you wont have to use a heavy moisturizer after it.
6.)It is really suitable for any skin type. They say it is for "normal" skin, but anyone with sensitive (this also means acne) skin can use this.
7.) It comes in a glass container with a pump. I prefer this type of container for two reasons: one being that plastic is easily broken down, and I have seen essential oils virtually eat through plastic containers because they are made of .. guess what... petroleum. The other reason is because the glass help to protect the product, and prevents the oils form breaking down as quickly because essential oils do change over time.
8.) The company uses really good ingredients. Not a cheap filler or questionable preservative in sight. Just really fine, and effective ingredients.
9.) Washing your face every night before bed is a wonderful way for your skin to bounce back from all of the environmental pollutants, and bacteria it is exposed to every day (unless you live in a bubble). This product contains wonderful botanical extracts that will gently soothe you off to sleep, yet it has a citrus note that is uplifting as well.
10.) Suki has an environmental policy that is sound.
http://www.sukipure.com/v2/pages/environmental+policy
This is when I had an epiphany... of sorts.
If I can create a blog that answers real questions about beauty products based on my experience with them, and can show people that understanding skin/body/make-up is not rocket science (most of the time), then they can feel empowered to shop with confidence.
To explain a little about me:
I am a retired Esthetician, turned accountant, who after about 8 years in the beauty/massage/spa world opted for a job with health care and dental plan. Sell out? Maybe, I do miss that world, but I also still keep my license valid, so that I can always go back to it when I am ready. I have been/will be a devoted user of cosmetic products, for hair, skin, nails, and beyond (more on that later). Since the first time that I carefully wound my grandmothers hair around an impossibly tiny perm rod, (I was about 8) to the last time I waxed a pals eyebrows before her job interview, I am a dedicated follower and user of beauty knowledge. I have read books, gone to institutes, attended seminars, been told the truth, and been lied to. But that is in the past. I no longer desire to have a 15 year old girl with $50 eye cream come up to me and ask if she thought that it would be strong enough for her. I no longer want a grown woman to ask me if they thought it was ok to use "Clean and Clear" toner. I feel that the beauty industry is much like the diet industry in the way that it bombards us with advertisement and confuses us with misinformation. My aim is to debunk the myths, and to deliver some sound advice about basic skin care for all ages, and skin "types". Who knows, perhaps I will write a book about all of this when I am done, but I had to start somewhere.
I suppose I should start by posting my first review. Here goes!
Suki Moisture Rich Cleansing Lotion
This is a light and creamy gentle cleanser for everyday use. It is for" normal", combination, dry and mature skin types. It features botanical ingredients such as organic lemon, organic sage and organic lavender. It boasts that it is good for solving"signs of aging, dryness and environmental oxidation"
What it is actually good for: Removing dirt, leaving your skin feeling moisturized, smelling amazing.
average price:$26.95 for 4.0 fl. ounces
I reviewed this product for many reasons.
1.) I have used it.
2.) I think investing in a decent cleanser is one of the most important things you can do for your face. (besides protecting it form the sun)
3.) It smells lovely, and this will make you look forward to washing your face everyday.
4.) it removes make-up really well without leaving you feeling stripped of all precious moisture, but also does not leave you greasy.
5.) Unless you have visibly flaky skin, you wont have to use a heavy moisturizer after it.
6.)It is really suitable for any skin type. They say it is for "normal" skin, but anyone with sensitive (this also means acne) skin can use this.
7.) It comes in a glass container with a pump. I prefer this type of container for two reasons: one being that plastic is easily broken down, and I have seen essential oils virtually eat through plastic containers because they are made of .. guess what... petroleum. The other reason is because the glass help to protect the product, and prevents the oils form breaking down as quickly because essential oils do change over time.
8.) The company uses really good ingredients. Not a cheap filler or questionable preservative in sight. Just really fine, and effective ingredients.
9.) Washing your face every night before bed is a wonderful way for your skin to bounce back from all of the environmental pollutants, and bacteria it is exposed to every day (unless you live in a bubble). This product contains wonderful botanical extracts that will gently soothe you off to sleep, yet it has a citrus note that is uplifting as well.
10.) Suki has an environmental policy that is sound.
http://www.sukipure.com/v2/pages/environmental+policy
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